Picture this: It's 2019, and you're at a dinner party. Your host disappears into the kitchen and returns with...a can of fish. Not even a fancy glass jar of smoked salmon, but an actual tin of sardines.

As a kid, I jokingly called the cans lined up in the pantry for last minute lunch packing emergencies, “human cat food,” so the thought of tucking into one when guests came round was a notion more far-fetched than believing that three wizard 12-year olds saved the world. 

Fast forward to 2024, and that same tin—preferably vintage, potentially Portuguese (I’m here right now and in conservas heaven), definitely photographed for Instagram—is now the height of culinary sophistication. Oily squid in a tin can run you up to $45 at Whole Foods. And the whimsical, design-forward packaging has earned itself viral internet fame. 

After years of mis-marketing the canned food aisle, tinned fish has returned to its roots as a treat to be craved rather than a last resort to be resigned to, thanks to stores like Big Night, online marketplaces like Lata, popups like the Portuguese Sardine in Times Square, and gourmet brands like Tiny Fish Co., FishWife, and Jose Gourmet. This letter is an ode to the comeback story of the century.

Why Tinned Fish? Why Now?

Living in New York, grocery shopping is more expedition than errand. You're waiting in queues for hours, running into your ex's best friend (and your best friend's ex), spending exorbitant amounts on what amounts to absolutely nothing (and a bag of truffle chips), then lugging it all up six flights of stairs, praying to god, Trader Joe, and the queen mother Taylor Swift that the bags don't break.

Finding something shelf-stable, affordable, AND protein-rich? Charlie, my boy, you've got the Golden Ticket.

The History

Luckily, living in this age of everything vintage being new again and anything French-girl approved being the height of cool, tinned foods have had a great renaissance in the years since the pandemic. But how did it all start?

Welcome to the late 1700s in France. Napoleon is offering 12,000 francs to anyone who can figure out a way to preserve energizing, protein-rich, and filling food to keep the military fed and healthy.

Enter Nicola Appert, the "father of canning," who created a preservation process that spread throughout Europe. Tinned fish saved the day!

The practice ultimately found it's home in the Iberian Peninsula and Spain and Portugal became leaders in the world of tinned fish, in large part due to the hot climate and limited access to refrigeration. With access to some of the best seafood and a widespread culture around “conservas,” restaurants dedicated to serving tinned fish, bread, wine, and assorted accouterments to enjoy it with…they still are. 

How it got “luxe?”

The coolest part? While "conservas" culture was casual snacking in Spain (think: aperitivo but make it fishy), 19th century Americans saw canned seafood as the height of luxury. Tiffany's even made special sardine forks. Yes, that Tiffany's.

The Ultimate Guide to Tinned Fish

For beginners and experts, alike!

 The Starting Lineup:

Tuna

Keep in mind: Look for brands that have been ethically sourced or “pole caught.”

Favorite way to enjoy: Make a tuna salad with a little bit of mayo, dijon mustard, a hint of soy sauce for umami, minced shallot, celery, lemon zest, and chopped capers or cornichons.

Mussels

Keep in mind: Clams, mussels, and oysters are an easy way to add protein to a pasta!

Best way to enjoy: On a cracker with cream cheese and crushed hazelnuts as a salsa macha inspired treat

Salmon

Keep in mind: Look for wild over farmed salmon for a more environmentally sustainable choice. Opt for Alaskan, Sockeye, or red salmon.

Favorite way to enjoy: Wrapped in wasabi seaweed with avocado like a hand roll.

Octopus

Keep in mind: Tinned octopus can be on the pricier side, but the surface area and texture make it a great vessel for so many interesting flavors. 

Favorite way to enjoy: On a cucumber round for a bit of freshness and crunch, topped with some feta.

Mackerel

Keep in mind: Mackerel is a great 201 option if you’re just getting into tinned fish but are tired of the classic tuna. 

Favorite way to enjoy: In a crunchy salad with fennel, toasted nuts or seeds, green apple or grape, and a mustardy vinaigrette.

Sardines & Anchovies

Keep in mind: Sardines and anchovies are often confused for one another by their head to tail packing, small size, and fishy flavor.

Favorite way to enjoy: Sardines on a cracker with a “cheaters aioli” (mayo, mustard, and a bit of minced garlic, mixed). Anchovies with lots and lots of butter on a baguette.

How to Serve Tinned Fish

• On crusty bread with good butter (essential)

• With pickled anything

• Atop avocado toast (because of course)

• In pasta (instant umami)

• On a "seacuterie" board

Pair with—

Whole spices

Fennel seeds, coriander, cumin (toast them first for extra flavor)

Ground spices

Turmeric, paprika, aleppo spice, sumac, za'atar, garam masala

Spicy additions

Chili flakes or chili crunch

Condiments

Mix with mayo, mustard, gochujang, harissa, or yuzu ponzu

Tinned Fish Wine Pairings

• For lighter fish (tuna, cod): Crisp whites or rosé

• For oily fish (sardines, mackerel): Light-bodied reds or natural wines

• For smoked varieties: Anything bubbly

• Bonus points: Natural wines work beautifully here - their earthy, sometimes briney funk complements tinned fish perfectly

• Plot twist: A dirty martini works surprisingly well (think of it as a very fancy brine pairing)

The Science-y Bit

Here's why tinned fish is actually genius:

• Long shelf life = less food waste

• Small fish = lower on food chain = more eco-friendly

• No refrigeration = lower energy consumption

• Traditional fishing = support for local communities

How Preservation Works

Preservation methods arent just about keeping food from spoiling—they're about transformation. The same way aging transforms cheese or fermentation creates wine, the canning process actually improves fish in some ways:

• The heat treatment makes omega-3 fatty acids more bioavailable

• Bones become soft and edible, providing extra calcium

• Flavors meld and develop over time

• Proteins become more digestible

How to Host a Tinned Fish Party

The Setup:

• Multiple varieties (aim for 5+)

• Good bread (non-negotiable)

• Simple accompaniments (pickles, herbs, lemon)

• Natural wine (because…it’s 2025)

• Tiny forks (for the drama)

The Flow:

Start light and work your way up (my favorites are linked):

1. Spanish white tuna

2. Cockles

3. Smoked mussels

4. Sardines (these are my top two! 1 and 2)

5. Lobster

6. Mackerel

7. Octopus

8. Spiced calamari