It started, as all good affairs do, with a late night phone call, a wedding, an “okay, but hear me out,” one friend with a week off work, and another with a trigger-happy flight booking finger (It’s a disease. They have yet to find a cure. Researchers worldwide are…actually not working on it at all). So, at 7:04pm, we landed at Benito Juárez with our overstuffed carry-ons, foreheads still covered in wedding sparkles and dance floor sweat, slightly delirious, and entirely excited.

There we were, standing outside the airport (perching? leaning lethargically on one another in a tangle of tired budget airline-scented limbs?) waiting for our Uber.

"I think we need a plan," says Ellie.

"I think we need a taco," says I…me…she *points at self*.

And just like that, with one Planner and one Passenger Princess desperate to talk to every butcher, baker, barber, and boatsman that happens to cross my path, we bring you…our officially unofficial CDMX City Guide filled with our top bits, bites, and bobs from last week in one of our newest favorite towns.

Discussing Desayuno 🍳 

To me, mornings are almost spiritual.

I wake up and groggily dress to chuck myself around the block a few times (nicknaming that half dance, half somnambulism a “run”), taking an ice cube to the face on the way out the door. My hymnal reads more like a 170 BPM Nostalgic House Remixes Spotify Playlist and my pew looks a lot like the “5 more minutes” I spend on top of my already made bed to complete my first scroll of the day, but the wafers and wine are the best part—because breakfast is well and truly the best meal of the day, no matter what form it takes.

Our first morning began on Calle Puebla. We picked our breakfast locale (read: painted truck) for “she looks happy, lets go to the girly one” reasons and do believe we picked perfectly. The operation was humble; one stove, two women, three menu items, and one million pots and pans to prepare them “as you wish.”

"Buenos días, ¿qué les sirvo?" Ana asked, already reaching for the clay cups that would soon hold our roasty, spiced, weak, but somehow equally transcendental coffee. We cradled them with quiet reverence and ordered green chilaquiles with chicken and eggs with rice and beans. (My mouth is watering as I write this thinking of way the salsa verde and crema softened the chips to make the perfect bite.)

As we ate, the stalls on either side of us began to populate. Business people, construction workers, a few scruffy sandal-clad travelers, and gossiping twentysomethings all congregated for their mid-morning meal. It was a perfect way to start the day.

We could have gone back to Ana every morning, but having seen the hustle and bustle of the ever-recommended Panadería Rosetta on our walk the day before, we had to see what all of the buzz was about.

I wouldn’t call myself a skeptic, but I hate queues. I don’t trust them. I usually feel certain that anything you find on the other side of one will be overhyped and underwhelming, a gimmick that captured the fickle fancy of a poor tourist.

This was not the case.

I would—and I’m not exaggerating when I say this—go to war, walk over hot coals barefoot, and give up two or three of my limbs for that guava pastry. It was light but substantial, tropical but tangy, rich but not that expensive. I ran back with one of those, the cardamom roll, the dulce de leche bun, and the tomato focaccia. All were amazing, but the tomato focaccia is the other one I’ll write home about. It was simple and the perfect savory to balance all of the sweet.

Finally, for coffee lovers, Tilia serves the kind of meticulously sourced, precisely brewed pour-overs and espressos that would make even the most jaded PNW barista tip their beanie in approval. It’s a great place to sit outside for a jolt while exploring Roma Norte, surrounded by the most beautiful greenery and colorful buildings.

CDMX Is a Culinary Capital for a Reason…

While the Best Of lists tout the glories of the influencer-approved hotspots and gaze Michelin-starry eyed at the hard to land tables, some of our most memorable bites came from more unexpected venues. Here are our favorite meals in CDMX (yes, one of them had a Star, but upon extensive, expensive research, it was more than well deserved):

Mercado de Medellín, was a sensory explosion and I was completely in my element. We spent an entire morning chatting with stall-keepers and pestering vendors with questions while they happily sliced open exotic fruits for impromptu tastings and history explanations. We worked our way through zapotes, mangosteen, passion fruit, and tejocote, but my favorite bite was at the coconut stand where, for a handful of pesos, you can douse your styrofoam tray of coconut flesh in everything from lime and cinnamon to tajin and tamarind paste.

That night we went to Rosetta and it deserves every accolade it's received. Chef Elena Reygadas' restaurant occupies a gorgeous townhouse in Roma, that toes the line between being both chic and comfortable. We splurged on scallops that melted like butter, stone crab with just the right amount of sweetness, a samphire green pasta dish, and the biggest mussels I’d ever seen.

I wish I had taken note of the name of the wine we paired with our meal, but to the sommelier’s suggestion, we got a Mexican white wine that was bright, mineral, and crisp, with a complex finish that complemented rather than competed with our seafood-heavy meal. I would have bathed in it.

The sleeper hit of our culinary journey came after visiting (read: sobbing our way through) the Frida Kahlo Museum. Hungry and emotionally drained, wandered into Recinto Amapa with minimal expectations, other than looking for a place to write out our raw musings, perhaps with a spritz. Needless to say, our non-expectations were well exceeded by the ceviche, mole stew, fresh tortillas, and perfectly cooked king prawns.

And finally, if you’re looking for something to do after dinner that puts a bit of a twist on classic nightlife, Salón Palomilla had incredible live music that ranged from traditional son jarocho to jazz fusion, all in a space that manages to feel both intimate and cozy and like a space-age amphitheater. The environment was perfect for people-watching and the cocktails were classic.

Coffee, Books, Art, and…Shopping

Mexico City's cafe culture rivals that of Paris or Vienna, but with a distinctly Mexican sensibility that favors languid conversations and decidedly more snacks.

Cafebrería El Péndulo in Roma combines my three greatest loves—coffee, books, and rooftop margaritas—in a space so perfectly conceived I would move to CDMX just to work from home from there forever.

For a more boho, “cool kid” vibe, Café de Nadie ("Nobody's Cafe") in Roma Norte is timeless, minimal, and RED. The record bar feels decidedly sexy with the most interesting cocktail menu that I think I saw the whole trip. The ingredients ranged from shitake mushroom powder to pulque orgeat, mandarin and honey milk, smoked beetroot, and tomato shrub. I wish I could have tried them all.

Mexico City's retail landscape also reflects its status as a design capital, with independent boutiques showcasing both local talent and carefully curated international brands. Even our hotel, Casona Roma Norte, had the most intentional, curated collection of art displayed in a beautifully restored colonial-style house, that was all for sale. I’m still kicking myself for not buying one of the pieces on our floor.

Our two favorite stores were:

Mvndo Varon, a masculine-leaning jewelry and design store with a unique elevated “streetwear” vibe. Their selection of independent designers from Mexico and beyond ranges from structured outerwear to handcrafted accessories, all united by a commitment to quality materials and distinctive silhouettes. Most of the pieces were a bit out of budget for an impulse purchase, but the store itself—with its thoughtful visual merchandising and art gallery atmosphere—was like a museum.

In Condesa, Casa Salt is where we did the most damage. It was just…fun. Their collection of locally made ceramics, textiles, and beauty products emphasizes natural materials and traditional craftsmanship.

Other Notable Extras

I wish we had longer to potter about the colorful streets and truly immerse ourselves in all of Mexico City’s distinct neighborhoods, but all that means is that we will have to go back again soon. Here are a few other notable things we ate, did, and missed.

1. The street hot chocolate—It’s SWEET, so one would have been enough to share, but it was the perfect mid-day treat. Now there will be a dash of cinnamon and hint of chili in every hot chocolate I make from this day forward.

2. Lardo—This mediterranean restaurant in Condesa was the perfect spot for a mid-museum lunch stop. The airy feel, fresh menu selection, and the Mexican orange riesling made it a highlight of the trip for sure.

3. The altitude—At over 7,300 feet above sea level, running is humbling in CDMX. You’ll see people out and about every morning because the promenades make for a lovely uninterrupted path, but the thin air takes some getting used to.

4. GinGin—We stopped by GinGin on our first night. The vibe was fantastic—cool, sensual, and chic. I’d say go for the cocktails but perhaps the food could be skipped.

5. Roma Norte—Walking around the neighborhood's tree-lined streets, exploring the architectural diversity (from Art Deco to modernist), and stopping in each of the neighborhood’s abundant sidewalk cafes is an activity in and of itself. Take a day to just wander and get lost.

6. Maximo’s—We missed going here, but it was highly highly recommended, so next time we will be making a reservation in…advance. (this is not my area of expertise)